Cook Like James

Quick Easy Penne alla Vodka

According to Saveur magazine, the origin of this popular Italian dish in still in question – “whether or not this dish of tube-shaped penne pasta lavished with a peppery, vodka-laced cream and tomato sauce was created in Italy is a matter of heated debate in some quarters; some say it was the result of aggressive marketing on the part of vodka importers. Whatever the case, it has become firmly entrenched as an Italian American classic.” This recipe, adapted with minor changes from Cook’s Illustrated, is quick to make and absolutely delicious. It all comes together rather quickly, so have everything prepped and ready to go before you begin the recipe.

Download Quick Easy Penne alla Vodka recipe

INGREDIENTS

1 (28 ounce) can best quality crushed tomatoes (see list here Best Canned Tomatoes)

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ small onion, minced (about 1/3 cup)

1 tablespoon tomato paste

3 medium cloves garlic, minced or pressed through garlic press

½-1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

Table salt

⅓ cup vodka

½ cup heavy cream

1 pound penne pasta

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves

Grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven over high heat. While the water heats up, add olive oil to a saucepan over medium heat and heat until shimmering. Add onion and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are light golden around edges, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
2. Stir in tomatoes and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Remove pan from heat and add vodka. Return pan to medium-high heat and simmer briskly until alcohol flavor is cooked off, 8 to 10 minutes; stir frequently and lower heat to medium if simmering becomes too vigorous. Stir in cream and cook until hot, about 1 minute.
3. While the sauce is simmering, add 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water and add penne pasta. Cook until just shy of al dente (about 9-10 minutes), then drain pasta, reserving 1/4 cup cooking water, and transfer pasta back to Dutch oven. Add sauce to pasta and toss over medium heat until pasta absorbs some of sauce, 1 to 2 minutes, adding reserved cooking water if sauce is too thick. Stir in basil and adjust seasoning with salt. Divide among pasta bowls and serve immediately, passing Parmesan separately.

 

No Fuss, No Sugar Banana Ice Cream

If you’re looking for a refreshing summer treat that big on flavor and low on sugar -this recipe is for you. America’s Test Kitchen has a wonderful cookbook called Naturally Sweet that is loaded with innovative desserts with 50% less sugar. This banana ice cream hits the spot when you want to indulge with a little less guilt – it’s rich, creamy, and delicious.

Download No Fuss No Sugar Banana Ice Cream recipe

6 very ripe bananas

½ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

1. Peel bananas, place in large zipper-lock bag and press out excess air. Freeze bananas until solid, at least 8 hours.
2. Let bananas sit at room temperature to soften slightly, about 15 minutes. Slice into ½-inch thick rounds and place in food processor. Add remaining ingredients and process until smooth, about 5 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.
3. Transfer mixture to airtight container and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours or up to 5 days.

Strawberry, Lime, and Mint Pavlova with Whipped Cream

After a long winter, where even Southern California has had its share of cold temperatures, it’s nice to transition to brighter, fresher, springtime recipes. Pavlova is a perfect example - light, airy, elegant – it’s a whimsical dessert that combines crisp meringue with a “marsmallow-y” center, lightly sweetened whipped cream, and macerated fresh fruit that provides beautiful color and texture.

There’s been a long-running argument between Australia and New Zealand over who invented the pavlova which was named after the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, who visited both countries in the 1920s. While Australians and New Zealanders agree on that, there is still no consensus on who invented it.

Regardless of where it was created, this recipe, adapted from Cook’s Illustrated, is easy to make and perfect for spring holidays like Easter and Passover. By following a few simple techniques, the recipe delivers a nearly foolproof showstopper for your spring celebration. 

Download Strawberry Lime and Mint Pavlova with Whipped Cream recipe

INGREDIENTS

For the Meringue:

1 ½ cups (10½ ounces) sugar

¾ cup (6 ounces) egg whites (5 to 7 large eggs)

1 ½ teaspoons distilled white vinegar

1 ½ teaspoons cornstarch (use potato starch for Passover recipe)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the Fruit Topping:

2 pounds strawberries, hulled and quartered (5 cups)

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon grated lime zest plus 1½ teaspoons juice

Pinch  salt

⅓ cup chopped fresh mint (or basil), plus 10 small leaves, divided

For the Whipped Cream:

2 cups heavy cream, chilled

2 tablespoons sugar

SERVES 10

*Note: Because eggs can vary in size, measuring the egg whites by weight or volume is essential to ensure that you are working with the correct ratio of egg whites to sugar. While baking, open the oven door as infrequently as possible while the meringue is inside. Don't worry if the meringue cracks; it is part of the dessert's charm. The inside of the meringue will remain soft. Do not substitute frozen strawberries for fresh here.

Total Time: 1½ to 2 hours, plus 1¾ hours cooling

1. For the Meringue: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Using pencil, draw 10-inch circle in center of 18 by 13-inch piece of parchment paper.
2. Combine sugar and egg whites in bowl of stand mixer; place bowl over saucepan filled with 1 inch simmering water, making sure that water does not touch bottom of bowl. Whisking gently but constantly, heat until sugar is dissolved and mixture registers 160 to 165 degrees, 5 to 8 minutes.
3. Fit a stand mixer with whisk attachment and whip mixture on high speed until meringue forms stiff peaks, is smooth and creamy, and is bright white with sheen, about 4 minutes (bowl may still be slightly warm to touch). Stop mixer and scrape down bowl with spatula. Add vinegar, cornstarch (or potato starch), and vanilla and whip on high speed until combined, about 10 seconds.
4. Spoon about ¼ teaspoon meringue onto each corner of rimmed baking sheet. Press parchment, marked side down, onto sheet to secure. Pile meringue in center of circle on parchment. Using the marked circle as guide, spread and smooth meringue with back of spoon or spatula from center outward, building 10-inch disk that is slightly higher around edges. Finished disk should measure about 1 inch high with ¼-inch depression in center.
5. Bake meringue until exterior is dry and crisp and meringue releases cleanly from parchment when gently lifted at edge with thin metal spatula, 1 to 1½ hours. Meringue should be quite pale (a hint of creamy color is OK). Turn off oven, prop door open with wooden spoon, and let meringue cool in oven for 1½ hours. Remove from oven and let cool completely before topping, about 15 minutes. (Cooled meringue can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 1 week.)
6. For the Topping: Toss strawberries with sugar, lime zest and juice, and salt in large bowl. Set aside for 30 minutes.
7. For the Whipped Cream: Before serving, stir chopped mint (or basil) into strawberry mixture. Whip cream and sugar in chilled bowl of stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment on low speed until small bubbles form, about 30 seconds. Increase speed to medium and whip until whisk leaves trail, about 30 seconds. Increase speed to high and continue to whip until cream is smooth, thick, and nearly doubled in volume, about 20 seconds longer for soft peaks. If necessary, finish whipping by hand to adjust consistency.
8. Carefully peel meringue away from parchment and place on large serving platter. Spoon whipped cream into center of meringue. Using slotted spoon, spoon topping in even layer over whipped cream. Garnish with mint (or basil) leaves. Let stand for at least 5 minutes or up to 1 hour. Slice and serve, drizzling pavlova slices with any juice from bowl.

Summertime Aperol Flip

I’ve never been much of an expert in “mixology”, but when I saw this cocktail recipe posted by Cook’s Illustrated’s Editor-in-Chief Dan Souza for an Aperol Flip, I was determined to master it. I was already a fan of Aperol, the brightly colored Italian aperitif that features hints of rhubarb, bitter herbs and burnt orange, and is the star ingredient of their famous summertime Aperol Spritz. “The Flip” was less familiar to me.

A flip is a class of mixed drinks, which uses an egg in the list of ingredients. According to Wikipedia, “the first bar guide to feature a flip was Jerry Thomas's 1862 How to Mix Drinks; or, The Bon-Vivant's Companion. In this work, Thomas declares that, ‘The essential in flips of all sorts is to produce the smoothness by repeated pouring back and forward between two vessels and beating up the eggs well in the first instance the sweetening and spices according to taste."

This is an impressive cocktail to serve friends this spring and summer. Egg whites freeze well, so I store them whenever I have leftovers. For the greatest flexibility, pour each white into separate compartments of an ice cube tray. Freeze until solid and then transfer the egg white cubes to a freezer-safe container or zip-top bag. That way you’ll be able to reach for the exact amount you need. The frozen egg in this recipe creates a smooth creamy topping that forms as the drink separates in the glass after vigorously shaking. (While the instance of salmonella in raw egg whites is low, if you are at all concerned feel free to use pasteurized eggs)

Download Summertime Aperol Flip recipe

1½ fluid ounces (3 tablespoons) gin

1 frozen egg white cube (about 1 ounce) *a fresh egg white will work as well

¾ fluid ounce (4 teaspoons) lemon juice

½ fluid ounce (1 tablespoon) Aperol

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

3 dashes orange bitters

1 pinch kosher salt

1 cup ice cubes

1. Combine gin, egg white, lemon juice, Aperol, sugar, bitters, and salt in cocktail shaker and vigorously shake until egg white has melted and drink is very foamy, 60 to 90 seconds.
2. Add ice to cocktail shaker and vigorously shake for 30 seconds. Strain into chilled coupe or rocks glass and serve.

Crispy Homemade Tortilla Chips

Crispy Homemade Tortilla Chips

Years ago my friend Robert’s mother was visiting from Mexico and taught me how to make her famous fruit filled guacamole (Anita Kass Guacamole recipe), but it came with a warning, “don’t make this if you’re going to use store bought tortilla chips” – they simply were not worthy of her spectacular guacamole. So, whenever I do make guacamole, hers or traditional, I always make these quick and easy homemade chips, the taste is worlds apart from bagged chips at the supermarket. 

Download Crispy Homemade Tortilla Chips recipe 

8 (6-inch) corn tortillas

5 cups peanut oil for frying

Kosher salt

For the best results, use fresh, locally made tortillas (the thinnest available). Peanut oil is preferred for deep frying because of its high smoke point, but vegetable or corn oil will also work.

 

1. Cut each tortilla into 6 wedges. Line 2 baking sheets with several layers of paper towels. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat to 350 degrees.

 

2. Add half of tortillas and fry until golden and crispy around edges, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer chips to prepared sheets, sprinkle lightly with salt, and let cool. Repeat with remaining tortillas. Serve. (Cooled chips can be stored in zipper-lock bag at room temperature for up to 4 days.)

SERVES 4